Ron Bilby, a long-time contributor to The Old Car Manual Project sent in a couple of nice shots of his ‘51 Stude (click to enlarge to full size).
(originally posted 22 July 2011; recovered from archive.org 17 May 2013)
I saw a nice example of the ‘76 Gran Torino in Starsky and Hutch garb at the Victoria, B.C. swap meet in late June. I remember one of these around town in the late 70’s when I was growing up there. Could this be the same one? The owner wasn’t around, so I couldn’t find out if it was an original Victoria car.
It was immaculately restored and even featured a Kojak light and police siren equipment under the dash. Note that 537 ONN is the correct license plate for the TV series car.
The old “Hygrade Motor and Tune Up and Carburetor Manual” is required reading for anyone who owns or services mid-1950’s or older cars with one or two barrel carburetors.
It covers the classic ways of tuning up the cars using simple tools and delves into the details of the typical Carter, Stromberg and Zenith one and two barrel carburetors of the day.
Some of the topics include:
- How to use a vacuum gauge, including for setting ignition timing
- Use of a compression gauge
- Testing the ignition circuit
Also, it has practical advice on setting up Buick Compound Carburetion, the quirky dual two-barrel set up used on the Buick straight-eight.
Find the full text here: http://carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/articles/TuneUp/CarburetorTuneUp01.html
(originally posted 10 N0vember 2010; recovered from archive.org 17 May 2013)
The Old Car Manual Project has a new website dedicated to original ads for old cars, called oldcaradvertising.com It’s a comprehensive collection of high resolution scans of over 12,000 ads, mostly from magazines, and covers the period 1903-1989.
I believe it’s the largest collection of classic car advertising on the web, and of course, it’s free.
Of related interest is the collection of brochures, which contains over 40,000 images, at oldcarbrochures.com
(originally posted 2 July 2010; recovered from archive.org 17 May 2013)
I came across this 1949 Monarch at the Lethbridge, Alberta Early Bird Swap Meet last February.
In the 1949 model year, Lincoln-Mercury dealers in Canada got the Meteor – a 114″ wheelbase Ford badged as a Mercury, but retaining the Ford 100 HP 239 V-8 – while the Ford dealers got the Monarch.
The Monarch rode on the Mercury 118″ wheelbase and used the Mercury drivetrain. It’s easily spotted here where you can see the Holley Model 885 carburetor of the ‘49 Mercury engine, with it’s unusual rear-facing horizontal air intake.
Ford models used the Model 2100, commonly called the ‘94′ because of the venturi size in inches usually cast into the main body.
There’s more on Canadian Mercurys including the Mercury truck, with pictures, here.
For a thorough review of most of the special post-war Canadian Fords, there’s a detailed article here.
Let’s say you have a typical, reasonable condition, not-seized muscle car Holley or Rochester Quadrajet. The bodies of these carbs are green chromate-finished zinc; the throttle bodies are natural aluminum. In my old carburetor shop (now closed) we would remove the throttle plates, choke plate and all shafts and fittings before cleaning.
For your own sake, remember that I’m presenting this information only for reference purposes – you must use your own judgment and be sure that you are aware of any hazards present if you’re going to try any of these operations. Some of the chemicals and procedures used below are dangerous and are for professional use only. ‘Nuff said.
Here is a typical cleaning sequence for a fully disassembled carb:
- Degrease: I use lacquer thinner, gunwash grade. This stuff is flammable and you don’t want to breath the vapors. Use caution. An overnight soak followed by a thorough brush cleaning is sufficient. Use a wood-handled bristle brush, not a synthetic one (they will fall apart). Work outside or in a fume hood.You can also use commercial carb cleaner. If your cleaner contains dichloromethane or tetracholoroethylene (2-layer type cleaner) DO NOT soak aluminum parts any longer than necessary. They will corrode if left overnight. Many bike carbs and SU’s have been ruined this way.
- Air dry thoroughly and blow out with air. Wear eye protection.
- Acid soak. I use a commercial metal cleaner which consists of mainly phosphoric acid and detergent. Soak for a couple of minutes until fizzing is evident and ‘white rust’ is removed. Don’t overdo it or your carb will be destroyed! If you don’t have this cleaner or you aren’t restoring the chromate finish later, you can use vinegar instead. It won’t attack the finish as fast, but will remove crud with a bit of brushing. Again, don’t overdo it.
- Rinse thoroughly in hot running water.
- Air dry and blow out very thoroughly. The carb must be bone dry for the next step. Bake in a 200 F oven for half an hour if unsure.
- This and the following steps are only performed if you’re going to restore the original chromate finish.
Glass bead: One way to get the carb down to bare, shiny white metal is to bead blast using very fine (#8) beads. Use clean beads and do the carb inside and out until it’s a shiny silver color. Use a blast cabinet and wear breathing protection.
- Blow out thoroughly with a high pressure blow gun – a ’safety gun’ isn’t powerful enough. Wear full-face and eye protection and hearing protection and be thorough.
- Acid rinse: Using a fresh batch of the same type of phosphoric acid/detergent as above, immerse the zinc parts of the carb only for about 30s or so. Aluminum parts don’t need this step, though they can be cleaned this way – no more than a few seconds exposure, or they’ll go dark on you.
- Rinse very thoroughly in hot running water until all signs of fizzing are gone.
- Immerse in the chromate solution for the appropriate time (see below). This is the trickiest part, since it depends on the concentration of the solution, the temperature and on the type of carb – not all zinc alloys are the same. I will say more about the chromate solution below, but for now, suffice to say that it’s dangerous, expensive and tricky to use. You can immerse both zinc and aluminum parts for corrosion protection, though only the zinc parts will pick up the green colour.
- Rinse thoroughly in COLD running water until all traces of coloured chromate solution are gone. Hot water will wreck the finish at this point.
- Air dry. Blow out with clean compressed air, thoroughly as before.
If everything is done right, the zinc parts of the carb will be an iridescent olive-green colour, just like new. Be warned though, it’s tough to get it right.
If you’re doing a backyard resto, you can stop after step 5. Usually, it’s best not to remove the finish (step 6) unless you’re going to redo the chromate. So, I would stop after the vinegar rinse if that’s the case. Now you can invest in a can of Eastwood carb finish and spray the carb. It’ll look OK from a distance, and even better when the hood is closed.
About the chromate solution
This consists mainly of chromium (VI) oxide (aka chromium trioxide) dissolved in water with a bit of nitric acid added. These are dangerous chemicals in untrained hands!
If you want to try, you can obtain the chromate mix (solid) from Atotech. Minimum quantity is 100 lbs – enough for a lifetime. Follow the mixing directions and prepare a solution of about 30 g / L of the solid mix in water. Add about 1 mL / L of concentrated nitric acid.
With this solution, it takes a 10 s soak for a typical Holley or Rochester carb to form the chromate coating, OEM style. The picture above shows a 1970 big-block Quadrajet that was refinished using this procedure.
As I said, this isn’t really practical or advisable for most people.
(originally posted 14 June 2010; recovered from archive.org 17 May 2013)
Gracing the cover of Modern Mechanix magazine from August, 1936 is this nifty induction powered buggy.
Being a physical scientist myself, I thought I might work out some of the energies involved in transmitting power this way. Suffice to say, it seems to me that there would be much frying of brains and possibly vegetation well before highway speeds were achieved. This may explain the grim look of determination on the pilot’s face.
Nonetheless, this is not a principle to be discarded lightly, so I have scanned the article and posted it on The Old Car Manual Project site.
(originally posted 14 June 2010; recovered from archive.org 17 May 2013)
The CC139 electric choke replaces the hot air choke exactly. Don’t use a gasket, because the choke is grounded through the carburetor.
The CC139 choke has a notch which is aligned with the front screw on the choke housing on the carburetor. This is a preliminary adjustment, but is usually pretty good for most applications.
The CC139 is an OEM design which contains two heater elements (high and low) and a thermal switch. No external sensors are required.
To wire the CC139 electric choke, connect it to power that is switched with the ignition or that is ‘ON’ when the engine is running. This can be the wiper motor feed, or direct from the alternator brown wire – use a fuse for safety.
That’s about all there is to it. If you’re using this part in a car which already has electric choke wiring, you can use the original wiring. Remember that in most 80’s GM cars and trucks the choke is wired through the oil pressure switch, so that if you have a bad switch you may not have power to the choke.
oldcarblog.com was hijacked and used to redirect to an attack site. We are working on restoring it and should be back soon.
Why do people act this way???